I have just finished watching the last of the “Hugh’s Fish Fight” programmes and the mini series has had a profound effect on me.I suppose deep down I have always known that our fish eating habits are deeply flawed, we have become far too reliant on a core “net” of fish species (the Famous Five of Salmon, Cod Haddock, Plaice and Tuna) and in doing so have allowed the fish stocks to dwindle at an alarming rate. The result, political policies of setting quotas and an increase in fish farming to satisfy commercial demand. Whilst the motivation behind these initiatives may well have been with good in mind the results are far from satisfactory. Of each catch landed, 40-60% is being thrown back into the sea, dead (known as “Discards”). Cod, haddock and plaice are returned to the sea, again very often dead when they have been inadvertently caught by fishermen who have reached their quota for those species. Fish farming seems to be having a detrimental effect though the high percentage of oily fish that make up the dry feed given to the farmed fish, 4lb of oily fish is required to produce1lb of farmed salmon, the equation seems to be crazy! In addition there is evidence of an increase in the incidence of fish lice spreading from farmed to wild fish stocks.
A key contributor to this issue is our unwavering demand for the famous five fish. Fish has always been a major part of my diet, in my mind I have endeavoured to be adventurous in the variety of fish that make it onto my plate. However, if the truth be known I am probably as guilty in turning to the favoured 5 species as most. As a result I will be trying out different species such as Dab, Coley and others. In my own small way I will help in the plight to increase demand with my local fishmonger for these fish and move away from the traditional.
I firmly support the campaign to stop “Discards” that is at the core of Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s campaign.
Sandwiching Hugh’s programme there have been some great cameo appearances from Jamie and others from the celebrity cooking crowd. Last night Jamie demonstrated just how exciting Dab can be, here’s his recipe (Jamie – I’m sure you won’t mind me passing it on), I’m certainly going to be giving it a go!
Jamie's Mediterranean-style dab
Ingredients
- 2 x whole dab, skin on and gutted
- Olive oil
- 4 rashers smoked streaky bacon, the best quality you can afford
- 1 tbsp pine nuts
- Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Small bunch of fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
- 1 lemon
- 8 cherry tomatoes, on the vine, halved or quartered
- Small handful of black olives, stone in
- 2 large handfuls of interesting salad leaves, such as rocket, radicchio and chicory, washed and spun dry
- Balsamic vinegar
- Extra virgin olive oil
Method
Use a small sharp knife to score the dab at 2cm intervals on both sides. Add a splash of olive oil to a large pan on a high heat. Add the bacon and pine nuts and cook for a couple of minutes, or until lightly golden.
Meanwhile, scatter a pinch of salt and pepper over the fish. Sprinkle over a little of the chopped parsley and finely grate over the zest of ½ a lemon. Rub that flavouring into the fish, making sure you get it into all the cuts. Repeat on the other side.
Tip the bacon and pine nuts onto a plate, add another splash of oil to the pan if you need to, followed by the dab, skin-side down. You may need to cook them in 2 batches or use 2 pans. After a couple of minutes, check to see if the fish are turning golden, and once they are, flip them over. Add the tomatoes to the pan with the olives and remaining parsley. Give the pan a good shake, then add the bacon and pine nuts.
Quickly dress your salad leaves with a lug of balsamic, the juice of ½ a lemon, a pinch of salt and pepper and a couple of lugs of extra virgin olive oil. Use your clean fingers to toss it all together.
Cook the fish for about 6 or 7 minutes in total. To tell if it’s cooked, put your fork into the plumpest part of the flesh and if you can easily pull it away from the bone, it’s ready. Squeeze over the juice from your remaining lemon half, give the pan one last quick shake then take off the heat and serve with the salad on the side. You could have it with new potatoes too, if you like.
© Jamie Oliver
To find out more about Hugh’s Fish Fight go to: http://www.fishfight.net/
HUGH's EXPERIENCE
"For the past few months, I have been travelling around the UK meeting fishermen, marine conservationists, politicians, supermarkets bosses, and of course fish-eating members of the public," says Hugh.
"My experience, and how it has changed the way I think about fish are shown in Hugh's Fish Fight (broadcast 11th, 12th, 13th January 2011), as part of Channel 4's Big Fish Fight.
"This season featuring programmes from fellow chefs Gordon Ramsay, Heston Blumenthal and Jamie Oliver, aims to champion sustainable seafood and celebrate lesser known delicacies of the deep.
"This website, fishfight.net is the campaign hub accompanying Hugh’s Fish Fight and will be continuing its work over the coming months. Here you can find out more about the issues raised in Hugh’s Fish Fight and lend your support to the campaign. You can also follow the progress of Hugh's Fish Fight on Facebook and Twitter.
"Hugh’s Fish Fight is supported by a wide coalition of environmental Non-Governmental Organisations (NGOs) and, we hope, by a growing number of fishermen and policy makers too. A vital part of the campaign, and the area where we are currently looking for public support, is the issue of discards at sea."
DISCARDS AT SEA
Around half of the fish caught by fishermen in the North Sea are unnecessarily thrown back into the ocean dead.
The problem is that in a mixed fishery where many different fish live together, fishermen cannot control the species that they catch.
Fishing for one species often means catching another, and if people don’t want them or fishermen are not allowed to land them, the only option is to throw them overboard. The vast majority of these discarded fish will die.
Because discards are not monitored, it is difficult to know exactly how many fish are being thrown away. The EU estimates that in the North Sea, discards are between 40% and 60% of the total catch. Many of these fish are species that have fallen out of fashion: we can help to prevent their discard just by rediscovering our taste for them.
Others are prime cod, haddock, plaice and other popular food species that are “over-quota”. The quota system is intended to protect fish stocks by setting limits on how many fish of a certain species should be caught.
Fishermen are not allowed to land any over-quota fish; if they accidentally catch them – which they can’t help but do - there is no choice but to throw them overboard before they reach the docks.
THE SOLUTIONS
We need to diversify our fish eating habits, and we need to change policy so that it works for fish, fishermen and consumers.
The Common Fisheries Policy (CFP), which is the political framework for the quota system, is currently being reformed for 2012. Scientists and environmental groups have suggested a number of ways that that the policy can work to protect fish stocks. Some details of these can be found on our solutions page.
Re-writing the Common Fisheries Policy is going to be an enormously complicated business, and unfortunately there is no one easy solution to ending discards. Many people agree that the answer will lie in a combination of different ideas and policies.
WHAT CAN YOU DO?
- Sign up to the campaign on the sign up page. You will be writing directly to policy makers in Europe to let them know that the unnecessary and unethical discarding of perfectly good fish must stop. We can make a difference. If enough people sign up to the campaign, they have to listen to us. We aim to get 250,000 signatures by summer 2011.
- Write to your MP to ask them to support the Fish Fight Early Day Motion.
- Expand the selection of fish that you eat by trying some of the lesser-known species of local fish currently being discarded as trash. In the UK, cod, salmon and tuna account for more than 50% of the fish that we consume, and tasty, exciting and nutritious fish such as flounder, dab, coley and pouting are overlooked and thrown away.
- Spread the word, tell all of your friends and family about Hugh's Fish Fight and get them to sign the campaign too.
Together we can stop this ridiculous carnage. Join Hugh’s Fish Fight now!
Thanks very much,
Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall
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